Suggested
Guidelines for “Emergency/Risky” Transports
©
2001 Sheri
Hearn, Used with
express permission of the author.
[Foreword: One
might wonder why we publish a document like this on the CUR website
when we do not typically support unsafe runs. One of the reasons we
try to keep our standards high and consistent is so that anyone with
decent dog handling skills and a willingness to drive can be part of
rescue, without being a biohazard specialist or a veterinary surgeon.
Not everyone is prepared for the worst-case scenarios. And yet they
exist, and often it isn't until you have the "benefit" of
experience that you really understand the words "run at your own
risk." Many runners have left transport altogether when something
occurred for which they simply weren't prepared, even if they volunteered
with the best of intentions. They just weren't aware that any risk existed
to make that run more dangerous than a standard run. These guidelines
will help you consider whether you wish to participate in such situations,
and if you do, to protect the dogs you transport. For that matter, they
are good guidelines to follow on every standard run too. You may not
know what unseen risk you are transporting. - Peg Banks]
Hi all—
In an *ideal* world, all dogs needing transport are fully vetted, altered,
quarantined and healthy before transport—but we all know this is
NOT usually the case. As caring rescuers, many times we work against
the clock trying to save dogs from PTS—and they often come from
shelters where veterinary care is sparse at best. That doesn't mean
we can't help these babies—what it DOES mean is that IF you choose
to help out with this type of 'emergency' transport, you should be *extra
careful* in following some simple precautions when transporting. I'm
assuming there are new AND seasoned transporters who may be reading
this email—some of this may sound like 'common sense' and I mean
no offense to anyone —"take what you like and leave the rest."
Having said that, here is a list of what works for ME if I do a 'risky'
or 'emergency' transport.
*SUGGESTED GUIDELINES
FOR 'EMERGENCY/RISKY' RESCUE TRANSPORT*
DO NOT HESITATE TO ASK QUESTIONS OF THE TRANSPORT COORDINATOR OR SHELTER
LIAISON ABOUT THE HEALTH/STATUS OF THE DOGS/PUPS YOU'RE BEING ASKED
TO TRANSPORT! MAKE SURE YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH THE ANSWERS YOU'RE
GETTING, SO YOU KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU DECIDE TO HELP WITH TRANSPORT!
WISH LIST BEFORE TRANSPORT —realizing these are not always possible
in 'emergency' situations:
- Wherever possible,
animals coming from shelters should be QUARANTINED *after* being vaccinated
and a week to ten days *prior to transport*, to ensure they are healthy
with the highest degree of accuracy possible—and altered (or
with a promise to alter upon arrival with reputable rescue).
- Wherever possible,
animals should be CRATED SEPARATELY during transport to prevent spread
of any possible germs/disease. Ask that a crate be provided with the
animal, and it can be shipped back cheaply via UPS or USPS—or
use your own 'rescue' crates, making CERTAIN to clean them carefully
with bleach/water solution (described below) between each use. If
crates aren't available and you still decide to transport, use a plastic
tarp to line your vehicle where the dogs will be—and rescue tie
dogs' leashes to different areas of the car (headrest, door handle,
etc.) to keep animals separated.
THINGS TO BRING
(this stuff will all fit into a small bucket in your car— great
to have at all times, so you'll always have it handy):
- Newspapers
- Spray bottle
with 20% bleach/80% water mix tightly closed
- Antibacterial
hand wash (the kind that doesn't require water)—pump is great
and easiest!
- Plastic bags
(the kind groceries are packed in) for trash/cleanups
- Paper towels
(the thicker the better)
- Small plastic
tarp to cover seat or back of SUV is also great (easy to put in/remove,
folds to whatever size needed, easy to clean with bleach/water solution,
hose off and re-use)
- Gallon jug
of fresh drinking water for dogs to prevent dehydration
- Disposable
small paper bowls for water, so dogs don't share bowls
- Bag of small
dog treats
- 1 or 2 extra
leash/collar sets *just in case*
GETTING READY AND
TRANSPORT—THINGS TO DO:
- Make sure all
dog(s) being transported have decent collar/leash—and that the
collar is on tight enough during transport so the dog can't slip his/her
head through it! You should be able to slide 2 fingers under the collar
maximum while it's right against the dog's neck and TEST IT to make
sure they can't slip through!
- Make sure dog(s)
being transported have had all necessary shots—DHLPP and Rabies
(Bordetella/KC is also good, but not mandatory)—and that the
paperwork comes along with them to prove it! It is ILLEGAL to cross
state lines without proof of rabies shot—anyone stopped by police
while transporting without proof of rabies shot(s) risk the dog(s)
being confiscated ON THE SPOT, among other things!
- NEVER, EVER
bring your own dog(s) along on a transport! Not only is it stressful
for the rescued dog(s) being transported, you increase the chance
for spread of any possible germs/disease between animals.
- Minimize exposure
to the inside of your vehicle by using a plastic tarp and putting
crates (or uncrated dogs if necessary) on *top* of it—and removing/returning
dog from/to crate without touching inside of your vehicle. Ride with
windows cracked open 'slightly' for fresh air.
- Do NOT feed
dogs prior to transport, or feed them *lightly* to prevent them getting
carsick/spreading germs that way. During transport, give a treat or
two and some water to keep their strength up and prevent dehydration.
- When removing
dogs from soiled crates to clean during transport, secure dog well
by double-tying leash/collar to the outside of car door (or open car
door and slam leash closed inside, leaving room for the dog to stand,
sit and turn around outside). Give dog water and a treat if you wish,
they can have it while you clean up their crate. Working quickly,
remove soiled newspaper and place into plastic grocery bag, using
handles to tie tightly shut after bag is full. Next, use bleach/water
spray to clean inside of crate—wipe well, replace fresh newspaper,
return dog to crate keeping collar on but clipping leash to outside
of front crate door. If you have a litter of pups in one large crate,
spray bleach water onto a paper towel & set aside. Open crate
slightly and remove soiled newspaper as best you can, making sure
nobody escapes —dispose trash in plastic bag. Use lightly-soaked
paper towel to wipe bottom of crate as best you can then replace clean
newspaper— moving puppies inside crate as necessary, then close
crate door securely. WASH YOUR HANDS with antibacterial hand wash
after handling EACH YOUNG OR ADULT DOG or LITTER (sharing a crate).
Sounds like a lot, but once you get good at this it goes pretty quickly
:O)
- Music really
does "soothe the savage beast"—I always play some light
classical or relaxing jazz during transport. It's amazing how crying
pups or anxious younger and older dogs will soon relax and even sleep
with peaceful music playing softly.
AFTER YOU GET HOME:
- If you used
your own crates, spray them down well with bleach/water solution and
leave them outside to air dry.
- Remove plastic
tarp if you used one, spray it down well with bleach/water solution,
leave it outside to air dry.
- Spritz bleach/water
solution into the area of your vehicle where the dogs/crates were,
and on inside/outside driver's & passenger's door handles.
- Roll down vehicle
windows just a crack for circulation.
- Toss bagged
trash into covered trash receptacle— spritz bleach/water inside
just to be sure.
- Wash hands with
antibacterial stuff before changing your clothes.
NEXT:
When doing this
type of transport, I leave the following things in my garage, ready
and waiting for me, and I change in the GARAGE after cleaning up my
car:
- a clean t-shirt
or sweatshirt, sweatpants, socks, something clean to wear on my feet
- garbage bag
to put dirty clothes in so I can carry them into the laundry room
- cardboard box
to put dirty shoes in so I can spritz them with bleach/water (top
and soles)
- another bottle
of antibacterial hand washing stuff so I can wash my hands again before
going inside the house
Sharon Brodeur
of All Pets Rescue says it beautifully:
“It's
advisable to change your clothes before coming in contact with your
own dogs, leaving your shoes outside until you can bleach down the
soles. Then use a bleach solution of 20% bleach to 80% water and mist
down your vehicle where the dogs were.
“This
should be done every time you transport regardless on whether the
dog has an illness or not. The reason is because dogs can harbor things
that don't show up for 10 days or more after getting to their destination.
The stress of transport will help to bring things out. All of the
dogs that came to me from this transport were already vaccinated.
And still we had a problem.
“Taking
the above mentioned precautions will ensure safety at home. You should
also call your own vet. They can give you probably more information
than I can.
“Also,
if your dogs are fully vaccinated that will certainly help. My vet
told me that dogs come in contact with parvo all the time. A healthy
dog with a good immune system and up to date normally fights it off
and we never even know about it. It's the very young and very old
dogs with weaker immune systems that are the most risk. Call your
vet and ask questions."
Many
transport groups do not condone transporting animals who may be 'risky',
and many transporters are not comfortable doing transports such as these—it
is up to the individual. However, if you choose to help out in these
situations, the suggestions above should help to keep you, your own
animals, and other rescued animals being transported safe.
Sheri Hearn
CUR #572
NEARR www.nearr.com
All Pets Rescue www.allpetsrescue.org
